Let's get started!

Now that you've read the thread below we can get started.
We are comparing RB25DET VS RB26DETT VS Hybrid (RB25.5+)in the S Chassis
***Note, all these engines will make the cut***

So the first few things you need to consider are, power goals, cars primary use, and most important BUDGET!!! For me the first 2 are important, it's going to be a long process so budget doesn't matter in my case.

Lets answer the first question, POWER GOAL??? As I stated below your not going for petty power with this beast 500+ is minimum. As I said before anything less is a waste of time and money. Stick with your SR!!! My power goal is 600-750+WHP (RELIABLE), more on this later as we'll be using my goals as a referrence to the VS.

Second, PRIMARY USE as in, what on earth are you going to do with this sinfull beast when its rubber meets the road!? Well my goal is simple, since I'm not cheaping out on suspension I can have multiple options. Thus meaning I can drift one day, and time attack the next (with a simple diff swap over night of course). My real goal is time attack capable. If I was going for drift only I would stick with the SR. Drifting is less power more finess. Time Attack is drivers skill vs car vs track vs everyone else. In short two skilled drivers competing same class with different numbers makes a huge difference. We'll use my example again to explain later on.

Last but not least, Infamous BUDGET!!! This swap can be afforded easily with patience. Without patience it can be the most expesive endevour you've sought thus yet! What I mean is, take short cuts = you lose. Also this swap isn't for a regular kind of person. You have to have self motivation coupled with drive(and insanity).

I promise you'll get down and not want to finish, people will knock you down saying its not worth the time and money. Or you'll get the real tards that say wieght distribusion blah blah blah. All you have to do is kindly tell them to shut the fuck up! You don't know what your talking about! More on wieght distribusion later... It is totally worth it! I've owned just about every damn Nissan, tracked those cars as well as felt the difference's between engine swaps. Take a ride in a 500+hp RB25 powered S13 then tell me it's not worth it. I owned one, it's full build thread is on your left.(It's currently in work as far as the pictures) When I drove that car after my buddy Kyle at DDS Performance in Vegas tuned it, I felt as if I had recieved a gift from the man upstairs!!! That car scared the living shit out of me!!! It was running on corn gas (E-85), that thing would break loose at 85mph and wouldn't get traction till 110-120mph.

With those issues aside, lets figure out what is needed and what is optional for the best.

RB25DET, in stock block and head trim with bolt ons, IE Turbo, Manifolds EX and IN, Fuel Delivery, EMS, and ETC. You can pull 450hp reliably 500hp okay and 600hp we'll it's only a matter of time! Only a matter of time you ask? What fails? What fails first is the headgasket then if you swap to metal headgasket, the ring lands on the pistons fail. Unfortunately as much as we love the RB25, the ringlands are not up to the challenge of much over 500hp. But hey we're stock, who plans on staying stock? I sure dont!!! Now whats needed to hit that 600hp mark for the RB25 reliably? Really all you need is pistons, metal headgasket and ARP Headstuds. Thats it!!! WOW pretty easy, the rods can take much more abuse in stock form. Well not exactly that easy, you see if your reading this and your anything like me you won't leave it to chance. Lets just put it this way, Nissan didn't develop or put millions of dollars R&D for the RB25DET to hold 450+hp. Anything over factory specs is pushing it in wise man terms. Sure it can maybe handle the power. But it sure as hell wasn't designed for it, which leads me back to "it's only a matter of time".

So lets be real you have an RB25 Series 2 on an engine stand. What to do??? Let's start by taking it apart and seeing what we're working with. Now if you bought this from a good source lets assume no damage on the inside. So you pop off the valve covers and instantly realize the guy that told you there was 30k on the engine was either lying or telling the truth. Dirty doesn't matter, go ahead and dissassemble the entire engine from covers to crank. If you want a reliable 600hp+ car your going to have to pull out the stops. Now that you've got it all apart you can start by taking it to your local machine shop. (This next part always gets me excited) Once you arrive at the shop have them deck the head (block optional, be sure you get the right measurement for ref. on the headgasket later)) hot tank block and head, then chemical bathe it, followed by another hot bath. Hear is where I get extreme in which you don't have too, I'll leave this out until RB25.5+. Now when they call you to say your block and head are ready, you will arrive and all the sudden it snowing outside because May just rolled back to Christmas. The Block and Head you left has now become "like new parts". It's incredible how clean they can get things. So now you can start fresh. Option you can bore over to 87mm without having to switch to darton sleeves. (Thats a whole nother ball game, and not needed)Lets say you stick with 86mm bore. So now you hop on FR Sport or Ebay and type in RB25 Pistons. You'll be amazed at how reasonably priced things are. So lets sayyou stumble on a package deal. OOOOOOO!!! 86mm CP pistons with Eagle Rods for $1,200. I'm almost 100% positive these will hold up to the challenge. Anything JE, CP, Wiesco and you'll be fine for pistons. Supertech won't hold up to our challenge reliably! Rods Eagle, Manley will do just fine for these power levels. Also they generally come with High Strength ARP ConRod hardware so win!!!
Here's an option. (N1 crank or ATI Damper or Both just an option) I will be using the N1 Crank and ATI Damper. So now you need to type in RB25 ACL Bearings. Also good prices. Pick up a full set of ACL Race Bearing don't cheap out here. Now order your metal head gasket Apexi, Tomei, HKS in conjuction with prior deck measurements. Try to stay away from Cometic, they gasket is reliable only problem is fittment for the rb25. The little rivets have to be cut off for it to fit on, it's a bit unsettling. Now go ahead and type in RB25 ARP. Get your headstud!!! Let's pause and review, we have Headstuds, Headgasket, Pistons w/rings, Rods w/ hardware, Bearings, Crank w/ Damper, now we can continue... So lets go on with preventable failures, we went with the N1 Crank for balance and most importantly Collar. The RB25 crank has a very small collar in which engages the oil pump drive. Little less than half is contacting the collar. (Terrible Design) So now the problem is elieviated. Speaking of oil pump, Type in RB25 N1 Oil Pump then click add to cart. You need this pump. ***Note, don't get confused the N1 pump is Nismo but is not the Nismo Oil pump all though both have duocentric designs the Nismo Pump diplaces way more volume. You can't miss the price difference (its about $1000 difference) The Nismo pump is overkill to our number, but hey if you got the cheddar thenby all means. I will be going N1 Pump. Now that we're on Oil delivery lets talk about known RB problems and squash myths. Does the RB have the tendency to overpool the head? Yes this is a simple fix, done with Tomei Orafice Bung set. $180 if your worried about it. Do I need to tap out the rear of the head an make a sump return? That is just retarded, who ever does that is a moron, especially with Orafice kit. Now that thats out of the way move on to water pump. Type in RB25 N1 water pump add to cart. When it shows up, go back to the machine shop, have them weld the oblong hole shut and redrill. This is a nasty and hilarious leak.I know because I had this problem, it gushes like crazy. Then go ahead and order a Nismo Low Temp Thermostat. This will ensure great operation. ReCap: Headstuds, Headgasket, Pistons w/rings, Rods w/ hardware, Bearings, Crank w/ Damper, Oil pump, Orafice Set, Water Pump, and Thermostat. With that ReCap we can continue... We're almost at the finish line, Go ahead and buy a master gasket set for the RB25 OEM only. ****Note, When installing the Oil Pump use the OEM gasket NOT RTV! So now we can move on to the head. We don't need to get crazy here like most people do for whatever reason. Personally I don't need that 5hp gain from hours and expense of porting. Plus for 600hp-750hp no need. The RB25 is known for its excellent head design. It flows well! Flows like and SR but reliable like a KA. Shim in Bucket design for the win!!! The only thing I would do to the head as far as removing material is, one deck which we already did and two gring down the odd shape raised casting on the exhaust ports. Other then that LEAVE IT ALONE!!!! Now for Valve Train. I plan on using Tomei Pon Cams 275 on both IN and EX, as well as Titanium valve springs and brass mangenese valve guides. Stainless steel Valve would also be purchased. Also if you have some more cheddar get those cool Greddy, HKS, or Tomei Can Gears. You'll also need a Greddy Timing belt. This is a none negotiable item YOU HAVE TO HAVE A BADASS TIMING BELT!!!!! RECAP: Headstuds, Headgasket, Pistons w/rings, Rods w/ hardware, Bearings, Crank w/ Damper, Oil pump, Orafice Set, Water Pump, Thermostat, Cams, Valve Springs,Valve Guides, Cam Gears, Timing Belt. So now while everything is fresh go ahead and buy new OEM tensioner pulleys. Now electrical, it's a series 2 so buy brand new coilpacks X6, you don't need splitfire either OEM will work just fine also I cannot stress this enough PLUGS PLUGS PLUGS and did I mention PLUGS! For the love of god people, you don't need $8 a piece plugs. Fuck iridium bullshit its too hot of a plug anyways. You need NGK V-Power plugs Non Iridium Gap as neccassary. They are anywhere from $1.34 to $2.00 a plug. Best part is no other plug works better PERIOD!!! Also while on the OEM spree its a good Idea to through $300 at the crack angle sensor/Cam sensor. Next lets discuss Turbo Manifolds, here is where things get interesting. You can spend almost 2g and get a fullrace that will last you forever or you can have one custome made for the same price, or you cango with a nice $400 ETD which works awesome. The manifold is tough and has alot of excellent reviews. Spools fast. I'll be going with a cheaper manifold NOT Fullrace way to expensive. Time for Turbo, when choosing a turbo all the factors come into play. Spool time etc. I will be trying the Garrett GT-35R Folks I will be buying brand new. Especially if this Engine just cost me almost 10K to build. This should put me at the 600hp mark just fine with awesome response. Lets talk Intake, I will be going with a knock off Greddy manifold, anybody that thinks thats stupid can seriously eat my shorts. I'm not paying $1,100 for a manifold PERIOD! I will buy that aluminium one that polished and has the proper runners NOT the super cheap $219 cast aluminium one though. Injector time, thisis kind of cool with straight six's you can just your injector cc by the horsepower you want. The math knda works out, I would need 750cc injectors for gas and 1000cc+ for E-85. I will use JECS again. Fuel rail will be Circuit Sport, and FPR willbe Aeromotive along with an A1000 Aeromotive Fuel pump fitted with surge tank. Well thats a rap for tonight gotta sleep will post tomorrow to wrap this up. :)

Hybrid Engine :)

So I've been chewing my fingers on this one... I have an RB25DET sitting in my garage that came out of a fully running donor car, descisions descisions....




 Then the idea hit me"Hybrid Engine"!!! We all know the dilema when trying to squeeze that straight six into our S chassis... It's frustrating enough just getting it in. In case you don't know it includes: mounting you have to either buy a mounting kit that bolts up to your subframe or custom fab one. Personally Mckinney Motorsports has me covered. Then you need to bang or cut and reweld your tranny tunnel to house the beastly trans.Also a driveshaft change is needed and Mckinney has me covered again. For a simple install you need to rewire and run an R chassis ECU in conjunction to the proper engine. After this you have to decide if it's worth it??? Well if your going for 300-400hp you'd be a retard to do this swap, at those numbers the torque can't really be noticed in comparison to an SR.(I know cause I've had both and know whats up) Lets be real!!! Your not dropping this monster in to make petty power, you wanna make 500+. So now is the time to get real! We know when comparing 2 engines you want results not bs. I have been reading alot lately on the interweb about the differences and peoples preferrence's. It's just that when you stumble on a good piece of info you have the thousand keyboard warriors behind it with usless and unknowing information. When I read Tech talk, I want to read experience not something some dumbass pulled from superstreet mag.

Change Up!!!

So I've had the RB26DETT's for a couple of weeks now. One is trash, but came with a good head. The other one's head and block are done for. Yesterday Nino dropped off a nice RB25DET with full harness and sensors. Only problem is its a Series 1, but thats really no problem at all. The difference between the two shortly is coil on plug, cam shaft/crank angle sensor, harness. More on this in a minute...

So That Was Intense

I just figured out that I definitely need to order that gopro today. Also need to download Sony Vegas 10 video editing software.

Week Update!!!

So Chuck wrecked his FD, I almost lost it in the S turns. No suspension yet!!! :(  Typhoon Cat 4 is going to hit tonight!!! Other than that I'm updating threads. Trying to get friends threads going, hopefully I can keep in touch with all of them.

Here's the route from Kadena AFB...

Head North on Route 329 to Route 331 AKA (Big Tunnel Exit next to Camp Schwab) then north east
Route 331 to Route 2 (which cuts across the hole Island on the nastiest road known to man, In a very good way.) This is like an expert level track seriously. Harder turns then Nur, Tsk, and Seca put together no joke!!! Well maybe alittle but still!!! After we run into 58 we head south to route 14 where we cut across the Island again. This is like an intermediate route. Route 14 runs back into Route 331 where we head back south home. ***Note this is a 4.5 hour driving experience, also the speed we're going makes route 2 almost impossible. Put it to you this way, Route 2's speed limit is 20K-25K.

We hit the S-Turn's about 80k-120k. There are so many crazy ass roads here. Never have to worry about cops after 2200, nor traffic, the Japanese people here on this island are super used to speed racers LOL. They just pull over and let you by.

The Gopro will be ordered asap now! I will post up all videos on this blog, under video link.
Feel free to friend me and add your own.

Ouch!!!

Today is awesome

So Today I just made this blog. Now I can vent, tech talk, and publish whatever I please. :)